Trans-Africa Adventure

Namibia
We were airborne early for the flight from Cape Town to Swapokmund. Our flight took us over the Orange River, its brown waters set in a twisting ravine banded by stripes of green vegetation. From the air, the river could be seen flowing through black crumpled hills that appeared quite suddenly after many miles of barren sandy land---the Namib Desert. Finding Swakopmund airfield proved difficult: a sand runway set in a vast expanse of sand!

The following day, we flew to the Mokuti Lodge bush strip at Etosha Game Park. Collected by 4x4 game-drive vehicles, we set off for the Mushara Lodge. A moment of excitement came with the discovery of a poisonous banded spitting cobra on the lawn.

Heavy rain during the night made us anxious: Would the dirt and concrete runway be fit for use? Thankfully, we all managed to get into the air before running out of the concrete portion. Our first flight was to Ondangwa to leave Namibia. Everyone filled up, as this was the last airfield with tanker avgas until Algiers.

Angola
The flight to Lubango was fascinating, as there had been heavy rains and many of the farms were islands surrounded by flooded fields. We missed out on seeing the massive Ruacana Falls on the Cunene River, as a huge storm sat over them. By the time the slower aircraft reached the falls, the storm had cleared to the west and the sight was apparently spectacular.

On arrival, we cleared immigration and customs more smoothly than expected, and our drive into town was stunning, through acacia trees with large showy flowers of brilliant orange lining the dusty streets that vary from potholed tarmac to rutted dirt. Angola is curiously the most expensive country in Africa. This was brought home when the Mooney pilot, Derek, kindly ordered me a single shot of Portuguese liquor, aguardente, at $25!

Our early departure was delayed by rain and low cloud. As it improved, we lifted above the broken cumulus with mountain tops peeking through until we reached the coast where we descended and enjoyed flying along the shoreline. Our landing at the small coastal airfield of Sumbe was tricky with a short runway, strong crosswinds and an offset final approach. Everyone got down okay, some on their second attempt!

The following day was a no-fly day, and we spent it exploring Angola with our guide Mario in Toyota Land Cruisers. Time stands still in rural Angola, and they say that Europeans "may have watches, but we have time." The extreme of this was our visit to Boa Entrada, a ghost town that was abandoned in 1975 when the 27-year-long civil war began. Built to house the workers and managers who ran the country's largest coffee plantation, it's now home to local Angolans who have returned but who prefer to live in their own mud huts next to the empty colonial buildings!

Republic Of Congo
On touching down, we were welcomed by the president of the Aero Club with a large beer. They had additionally thrown a party in our honor, which went on late into the night. We had a late departure the next day, and were on our way for the 300 nm journey up the coast into Gabon.

Gabon
Flying low along a deserted beach is always special, and the coastline of Gabon was no exception. We had been told to keep a lookout for elephants on the beach---and a number were spotted. They swim in the sea to remove insects, and it makes quite a sight. It was mid-afternoon when we landed over the oil rigs at Port Gentil. The town is only accessible by air or sea as it's surrounded by inhospitable marsh.

Príncipe
The flight was short and easy (but for São Tomé Radar asking every pilot for their phone number!), and we crossed the equator again. The island of Príncipe measures just 16 times the length of the runway. The Príncipe immigration and customs formalities took minutes in a relaxed island-style way, and we had arrived. Ten minutes on the back of our hotel's "truck," through lush jungle brought us to Bom-Bom Island.

Bom-Bom is at the northern tip of this small island paradise, with luxurious wooden huts set back from the beach. To describe the place as "away from it all" conveys too much sense of frenetic activity---perfect for another rest day. Dining under the stars by candlelight, our table strewn with fresh red hibiscus blooms on the white tablecloth, life was good, and the meal was simply excellent.

Nigeria
The flight north from Príncipe was a crux moment, crossing the ITCZ ("the itch"). Despite a discouraging (but predictable) forecast, we departed north and had a good flight. The visibility was poor but workable until we approached the Nigerian coast where it cleared. The flare stacks of the Niger Delta were all around, burning bright.

Entry into Nigeria was something of an ordeal---this is Africa's most populous country (almost 200 million people in an area only a little bigger than Texas). After a crazy drive through Port Harcourt traffic, we arrived at our hotel. Our return journey to the airport the next morning was more relaxed (though probably only because we knew what to expect).

It was with a sense of relief that we got airborne---it's not often that the cockpit of a light airplane can seem serenity itself! We had over 400 nm to Kano in northern Nigeria---which also marked our move from equatorial jungle to the beginning of the Sahara. The flight wasn't easy, as our forward visibility was poor (though vertical visibility was perfect even from 7,000 feet), and there was lots of radio chat to maintain separation. The runway became visible three miles out, and we landed in turn. The airfield officials couldn't get their heads around the arrival of our aircraft. "What flight number did you arrive on?" they asked repeatedly. "Where are your passengers?" No, we were Captain and crew of an aircraft that has no passengers. Still confused, they waved us through with a smile into the sprawling, bustling desert city.

The next day, we returned with 16 gallons of Mogas for one of the planes. Potential problems with security were sidestepped when Sam Rutherford of Prepare2go suggested that perhaps it was apple juice! The leg we were to fly was straightforward, but the air was full of dust, and a high-pressure area had settled over the region, preventing it from clearing---but there was blue sky above. Sam decided that he and I would go first to Agadez, in Niger. On landing, he would use the satphone to call Adam (also from Prepare2go) back in Kano with a pirep. My plane was chosen for the test flight since if we were unable to land at Agadez, I could (just) return to Kano. The flight went smoothly, and everyone else then followed.

Niger
A short flight and removing two letters---but what a difference. As well as being Africa's poorest country, it's also one of the least populated---an utter contrast from its southern neighbor. On landing, we refueled quickly and were taken to our auberge, which turned out to be a delightful Touareg-style oasis in the center of Agadez. We visited the world-famous mosque; some even climbed to the top of the minaret.

Algeria
We again had haze to contend with, and the promised 9,999 at Tamanrasset seemed extremely unlikely, until it suddenly cleared about 10 miles out. We met Sam's friend Claudia, and were driven through town out into the desert to the foot of the mountains, where her tourist bungalows are situated. It's a pretty development having a large shady courtyard with trees and shrubs around, which was a collection of small mud dwellings, simply yet tastefully furnished and with floors of fine gravel. We ate supper under the stars on cushions set out around large round copper tabletops arranged on colorful mats and rugs. Our couscous and lamb stew came on a single communal bowl in the center of each table. Dinner ended with traditional tea poured from a silver pot at height, without a drop spilled.

The next day, we could see more of the mountains, which suggested improving visibility. Indeed we had two spectacular flights over the desert to our night destination of El Goléa. Sam had warned us that the accommodation, whilst the best in town, was "very basic." It still came as a surprise to us when we saw just how basic it was. Hôtel Vieux Ksar was the grandest building in town, but then so would my garden shed have been!

Our last African day was the 400-mile flight to Algiers. The others had left earlier as we travelled more quickly. In flight, we received a message from Sam saying they (he, Alain's Piper PA-28 and Richard's Grumman AA5) had diverted to Béjaïa, as there was bad weather at Algiers. We all followed this plan, and after making our excuses to the navigation office for filing different alternates to the one we actually used, we lifted again for the short flight to Algiers. We were pleased to check into Algiers' finest hotel, the splendid El Djazaïr. The mixed emotions were also beginning---it was almost over, but, it was almost over.

Spain
The last day of March and our final leg took us across the Mediterranean to Ibiza, a short, easy and beautiful flight. Not quite the end of our adventure, but returning home from here would be simple after circumnavigating all of Africa. Tired and elated by our achievement we departed for the boutique Ocean Hotel where hugs and congratulations were shared around. There was a last supper, which lasted late into the night. We had done it! Over 10,000 nm, from northern Europe to Cape Town and back, two months and 15 countries!

Prepare2go (www.prepare2go.com) will be running the Safari again at the beginning of 2013---including aircraft coming from the U.S. for the first time. I can't recommend it highly enough, but don't forget that it's an adventure, and you may just end up using your sleeping bag!